Pakistan’s recent sectarian difficulties have blighted the progress of what was previously a growing presence on the international tourist map. Now, with tourists choosing neighboring enemies India instead, Pakistan is a lonely (and far from secure) corner of the world for travelers, often dismissed by potential visitors simply for its endless newsreel of negative images. It's certainly not the safest destination in the world, but it is one with plenty of exotic charms to uncover.

The monuments here are every bit as grand as India, though often more earthy and rugged. In Uch Samif, for example, you’ll find blue and white towering Sufi shrines, over 2500 years old, and once a temporary home to Alexander the Great. At Moenjadaro you can stroll amongst the crumbling ruins of an ancient city that contains 165 separate Indus Valley sites, while in Karachi you can explore the modern side of Pakistani civilization, taking in the impassioned scenes at a live cricket match.

Traditionally, Pakistan’s iconic adventure is the Karakoram Highway, a hairy 1,200km ride over mountains and ravines, into China the hard way. These days you’d be daft to try and get through without an armed guard, but if you’ve got the money it’s still an incredible escapade. The less intrepid might prefer sipping green tea in the markets of Peshawar, which gives the briefest taste of an aging frontier town. Pakistani food, though less world-renowned than India’s, engulfs the crowded market streets with the potent smell of spices and the subtle flavors of pistachio buttermilk and freshly squeezed fruit juices.

At Wagah you can watch the Indian rivalry come alive, sitting in the stadium and waving your flag as the melodrama of the daily border ceremony unfolds. In the Swat District, you can engulf yourself in Buddhist culture and amongst the verdant greenery and striking landscapes of a former hippie haven, while you’ll find the other extreme in the robust desert outposts of isolated Quetta.

Pakistan’s never been an easy place to go, and - if anything – now it’s harder than ever. Make the effort, though, and you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant culture and wealth of extraordinary scenes that make it all worthwhile. Just be careful where you head for.